Hiding A Hot Rod Battery
Building a street rod is very similar to putting 10 pounds of stuff in a 5-pound bag; there's often more stuff than there is space to put it. Such was the case when we went to find a place for the battery in our Model A pickup. Under the hood was out of the question due to lack of space, and under the body was out because it was too inconvenient. The only logical spot for the battery was the pickup's bed-there was plenty of room and it would be convenient; we just had to find a way to camouflage it.
It just so happens our very own Road Tour warrior, Jerry Dixey, has a company called Classic Automobilia. Among his wares are pedal cars, trikes, reproduction gas pumps, and other collectibles-including really cool coolers. And it just so happens that a battery will fit inside one.
With a bright red Flying A cooler from Jerry on hand, we went about removing the inner liner and insulation to transform it into a battery box. It was a fairly simple operation; holes for the necessary cables and wires were drilled in the bottom of the box and through the bed floor. To help support the weight of the battery, an aluminum strap was placed across the bottom of the box, so it fits snugly between the floor and the bottom of the box. Two 1/4-20 threaded holes were put into each end of the strap, then a pair of long threaded rods were installed with enough length below the box to secure it to the bed floor and enough above to serve as battery hold-downs. Nuts on the rods inside the box lock them in place.
* Shielding your battery from high-heat sources like headers will greatly extend the life of the battery.
A number of electrical accessories are under the bed, including the fuel pump, air suspension compressor, and the condenser for the A/C (yet to be installed).
Inside the box, mounted to the battery hold-down, we added a fuse for the fuel pump and circuit breakers for the airbag compressor and A/C condenser fan. In addition, we installed a Flaming River combination battery and alternator kill switch. With a conventional two-pole switch, turning it to the off position will not kill the engine-it will continue to run on the alternator even with the battery disconnected. The Flaming River switch will kill a running engine, as it interrupts the alternator circuit as well as disconnecting the battery. This switch meets NHRA and SCCA sanctioning body requirements and has a rated capacity of 2,000-amp surge, 150-amp continuous, and can handle a 120-amp alternator. Of course, the alternator function does not have to be included; we used it as a convenient source to power the fuel pump relay.
The battery we used is a new XS Power Cell from Powermaster. Using AGM (absorbed glass mat) technology, the electrolyte is suspended in an absorbent fiberglass material, eliminating the need to flood the battery with water. This unique design of an AGM enables it to be spill-proof and vibration-resistant while having ultra-low internal resistance. Rattling around in the back of our Model A calls for a rugged battery, and the sealed design alleviates any issues of spilled acid.
The cooler worked great as a battery box for our purposes, but yours doesn't have to be out in the open like ours-one could go in the trunk as well. Either way, your rod's battery can hide in plain sight, too.
We housed the A's battery in a retro cooler from Jerry Dixey's Classic Automobilia. We removed the inner liner and the insulation to make more room for battery cables and wiring.
Proper Care Tips for Powermaster's AGM Battery
* Proper charging is crucial to the life of the battery. Ensure that charge voltage never exceeds 2.5 volts per cell, or 15 volts for a 12-volt battery.
* When using a battery charger, it is best to use a microprocessor-controlled charger like the XS Power Intellicharger. This will ensure the fastest and fullest recharge by allowing the appropriate amperage for the given battery size.
* In deep-cycling applications, it is important to note a battery should not be discharged below 10.5 volts. Doing so may cause damage to the battery.
* Before storing a battery away for the off-season, it is important that it is fully charged. Leaving them for long periods of time in a low state of charge may cause damage to the battery.
* Take special care when handling batteries. They are unusually heavy for their size and sometimes difficult to handle because they are tightly packed with lead. Do not use batteries that have been dropped.
* It is important to pay close attention to the torque specs when tightening the battery terminals to prevent slippage and allow maximum connectivity.
The battery cables and wiring pass through a trio of holes in the bottom of the box. A pair of threaded rods are used to attach the box to the bed; the aluminum strap helps support the weight of the battery. Note the rubber grommets used to protect the cable and wires.
A shutoff switch from Flaming River was added for safety and convenience. The spring-loaded knob is turned clockwise to turn on power; simply pushing it in shuts off power.
We used relays under the bed to control the truck's electrical components because the battery is located close to several of them. The power supply wires for the air compressor and A/C condenser fan are protected by circuit breakers.
Inside the box, the upper ends of the threaded rods will secure the battery. Here, the cables and the wiring for the under-bed relays have been run through holes in the bed floor and the box.
For the fuel pump, we opted for a fuse to protect the circuit. If something goes wrong with the pump, we'd prefer it to stay off due to a blown fuse, rather than come back on when the circuit breaker resets.
The Flaming River switch is actually a combination battery and alternator kill switch. In our case, we used the alternator circuitry to power the fuel pump relay.
After cutting up the plate and mounting the switch to one piece and the circuit breakers to another, they, along with a sealed fuse holder, were attached to a piece of aluminum angle with a few button-head screws.
What this assemblylacks in aesthetics it makes up in functionality, as it doubles as a battery hold-down.
We cut up an old household electrical box block-off plate to make mounts for the cutoff switch and circuit breakers.
We used 00-cable and copper ends to connect the battery to the starter and ground. The cable is easily cut with heavy-duty shears; a razorblade was used to cut back the insulation.
Many of the Powermaster batteries have "deep-cycle" style posts that require screws to secure the cables. Powermaster offers these adapters that allow the use of standard "clamp-on" battery cables.
Known for its alternators and starters, Powermaster now offers a variety of batteries with the same quality that has made the company's other products so successful. These sealed batteries come in a variety of sizes and capacities.
Powermaster batteries use the latest AGM technology and can be mounted in virtually any position, although upside down is not recommended.
This crimping tool was picked up at a swap meet and it works great for making battery cables. Although the tool was designed to be hit with a hammer to make the crimp, we squeezed it in a bench vise with excellent results.
One of the secrets to a reliable electrical system is proper grounding. We installed a stud (arrow) in the framerail for the battery's ground cable.
Here's a look inside the box. The cutoff switch, circuit breakers, and fuse are mounted to the battery hold-down; it is held in place by the upper ends of the threaded rods that secure the box to the bed; one is just visible above the cutoff switch here.
Some prefer soldering battery cable ends, although we've found crimping to be adequate. Drilling a small hole allows the solder to be drawn through when the end is heated. Shrink tubing can be used to give the ends a finished look.
